S&W Grand gives new life to a Knoxville tradition

Everything old is new again—or so goes an
old expression—but in the case of the S&W
Grand, the sentiment certainly holds true.
When it opens to the public later this
month, the new downtown restaurant will
light a torch that has lain extinguished for
nearly 30 years and rekindle a Knoxville
tradition that dates back to 1936.

The S&W Grand will inhabit the recently
renovated space once occupied by the
storied S&W Cafeteria, which was a Gay
Street landmark for nearly a half-century.
What was, just a couple of years ago, a
neglected shell of a building has been
restored to its original art-deco glory and is
being presented, in nearly pristine
condition, back to a community that has
always kept the site preserved in its collective memory.

“This building belongs to everybody,” says Stephanie Balest,
who—along with her brother, Brian, and Chef Shane
Robertson—is the proprietor of the S&W Grand. “Everybody
has a story about growing up here—going to the S&W
Cafeteria with their parents and grandparents. If you grew up
in Knoxville during that time, you have a personal connection
to the building.”

The Balests, who also operate the Northshore Brasserie,
created a vision for the new restaurant that walked in lockstep
with that of the building’s owner and developer, John Craig.
Both parties, even before they met, had harbored thoughts of
bringing new life to the old S&W site.

“When we first met John, he asked us if we would consider
opening a restaurant downtown,” Balest recalls. “I told him we
would only do that with the old S&W Cafeteria. He gave us a
big smile and said, ‘I own that building.’”

Upon first touring the dilapidated structure in
2007, Balest saw potential in the midst of all the
rubble, and she characterized the space as
“grand.” Hence, the restaurant’s new S&W Grand
moniker.

The S&W Grand will operate as a full-
service, sit-down restaurant rather than a
cafeteria, but in nearly every other respect,
from the spirit of the original menu to the
stunning architecture, the friendly ghosts of
S&W past will be readily apparent.

“We will serve classic American food that’s
comparable to what was served back in the S&W’s
heyday, but we’ll do that in a way that’s suited to
2009,” says Balest. “We’ll be mixing the classic
dishes with some of today’s comfort foods.”

Items like ham steak, crab imperial and liver and
onions will be callbacks to another era, but the
menu overall will be balanced enough to appeal to
diners young and old. Both lunch and dinner items
will be served at any time throughout the day.

And of course, the structure has been restored
to as close to its original condition and
appearance as possible, from the original wood
flooring to the period-faithful furnishings and
fixtures to the new revolving door manufactured
by the same company that produced the original
entryway. The S&W Grand will also offer full
bar service, music and banquet facilities.

“We get calls every single day from people
young and old, inquiring about having their
special events like wedding receptions and class
reunions hosted at the S&W Grand,” says Balest.
“At this point, we feel that this place is much
more than a restaurant, and we feel privileged to
have the opportunity to be a part of it.” EK

Painting by Heather Whiteside